It all started when I ran over my board

Paris McMahon

It all started when I ran over my board, yes, que the water-works. My brand new mini-mal underwent a serious punch in the gut. I was travelling around Australia at this point, and planned to venture around the east coast and down south, you know, chasing tides. It didn’t hit me though, until after I crushed my board broke, truly how much I took surfing for granted. I always made an excuse not to go in, ‘shark vibes, or It looks too messy’, the excuses went on. But when the option to surf was taken away from me, I felt lost. Its weird although, I had never been a water baby, I grew up in Canberra and our idea of being in the water meant the Civic community pool. When we travelled down the coast, I would be so fearful of the water. I was scared that the waves were going to take me under and never let me go. Years went on and to this day I still feel like this, at the foot of the water, I worry. But after I paddle out, and find myself at the point of the swell where you just float, I forget. All my fears just washed away, I just surrender to the experience. When I say, it all started when I ran over my board, I mean it. My perspective shifted, I realised that dancing in the waves will forever be apart of my life, and I never want it to go away. It brings me mindfulness, positive energy straight from mother herself and a bloody great big grin that leaves wrinkles. My board is at the Barry Board Fixer Hospital, and for now I borrow sticks and soak up any chance I get to be in my great big salty home.